Det er ikke så ofte jeg leser kokebøker fra perm til perm, og enda sjeldnere at jeg kommer så langt som til å skrive om dem. Faktisk har det bare skjedd en gang før, så vidt jeg kan se, med Dishoom: From Bombay with Love. «Mykenboka» ble bestilt så snart de åpnet for bestilling, og ankom her en liten stund før jul. Det tok en stund før jeg åpnet pakken, men når jeg først hadde gjort det var det umulig å la være å begynne å bla i boka, og like umulig å la være å begynne å lese.
Jeg er nemlig en av ganske mange Mykenvenner her i landet. Min interesse for Myken oppsto som direkte konsekvens av at Myken Destilleri ble startet. Det hjalp selvsagt at jeg fikk delta på den formelle åpningen som en av to «whiskybloggere», for Myken viste seg fra sin aller beste side under det besøket. Jeg skrev to innlegg den gangen for nesten ti år siden (! tiden flyr), ett om selve destilleriet og ett om maten vi fikk servert. I ettertid har vi vært på to familieferier på Myken, og resten av familien har også fått sjansen til å forelske seg i denne lille øygruppa utenfor Helgelandskysten. Du vet du har truffet på et spesielt sted når dere har tilbragt en uke med å gjøre «ingenting» og ungene likevel vil tilbake.
Antall fastboende på Myken er ikke stort (men destilleriet har bidratt til at trenden er oppadgående), så du skal ikke tilbringe mye tid på øya før du treffer en stor andel av dem. Hvis du er lur nok til å gjøre som de lokale og møte opp ved butikken i den korte åpningstiden og sette deg til (inne eller ute, avhengig av været) med en is eller en kanelbolle er det enda lettere å bli kjent med folk. Derfor er mange av de menneskene som omtales i boka allerede kjent for meg.
Dette er med andre ord langt fra noen objektiv bokomtale.
Men litt må jeg vel likevel si om leseopplevelsen. Øya Myken Maten Menneskene er den typen kokebok du godt kan lese fra perm til perm, oppskriftene følges av korte historier om folket og stedene de er tilknyttet. Julie Lunenborgs bilder er selvsagt minst halve moroa her, det er rent godteri for øynene, både maten, folket og naturen får skinne. Likeledes skinner kjærligheten til mat, folk og Myken gjennom i tekstene, og jeg fikk rent «hjemlengsel» her jeg satt.
Jeg skal selvsagt teste noen oppskrifter, ikke minst må jeg prøve meg på fiskekakene jeg nesten forspiste meg på (se innlegget om maten vi fikk som jeg lenker til lenger opp), men for meg er boka like mye et fantastisk fotoalbum som jeg kan dra fram når jeg får behov for litt Myken i monitor.
Vil du ha litt smakebiter fra boka anbefaler jeg å sjekke Instagramkontoen @mykenisland.
I mostly resist the temptation to buy cookbooks. Not because I don’t like them, but because I know I use them far less often than I should to justify the expense and shelf-space. And even when I do buy cookbooks, I rarely read them cover to cover. However, when I found out that the people behind the restaurant chain Dishoom (of which I have sadly only visited one location and that only once) had written a cookbook, I immediately ordered it, and over the last months I have indeed read it from cover to cover (well, ok, not ALL the ingredients lists and instructions, but a fair proportion of those as well).
Dishoom (the book) is, as the cover says, both a «cookery book and a highly subjective guide to Bombay with map». It describes a walk around south Bombay, with stops at notable food places, from fairly fancy restaurants to street vendors’ stalls. You could probably follow along in the real south Bombay, but if you actually ate all the things they suggest in just one day I’d be impressed.
Each section of the guided tour introduces a set of recipies for a time of day, or rather a category of meals. It starts out fairly unremarkably with breakfast, mid-morning snacks and lunch, continues – with a degree of excess – with afternoon refreshments and sunset snacks, and then turns positively hobbity with first, second and third dinner, topped off with pudding and tipples.
Fold-out map at the start of the book: Gotta love it!
If I ever go to Bombay, however, I will definitely try to find as many of the places mentioned as possible, but spread out over a few days…
The introductory texts introduce cafés, restaurants, people and sights, and expertly evokes a feeling of place. I can easily imagine myself on the streets of Bombay as I read. I have realised over the years that I am to some extent more fond of reading books about far-away places (when well-written) than actually travelling there, and though I have an idea that I would like to visit Bombay, in reality I suspect I would dislike actually being there, not least because I am not fond of either heat or crowds. Reading about it, however, is a real pleasure.
As is custom in Bombay, the name of the road has changed several times in the hundred-odd years that this post has lingered here. Today the road bears the official post-colonial title of Netaji Subash Chandra Bose Road, though everyone knows it as Marine Drive. Such is the way with place names in Bombay. The names on your map, imposed by officialdom, have only sporadic correspondence with the names used by actual people. The worn grooves of usage take time to wear anew. VT (Victoria Terminus) will still be VT for decades to come, no doubt.
(Page 151) In addition to the guided tour parts of the book, the introductory notes for each recipe are delightful. For example: Vada Pau is described as «a simple dish, a bit like a chip butty, but obviously much better» (page 174), and reading the recipe I suspect they are correct. Chicken Tikka, however, comes with the warning:
Chicken tikka masala is supposedly Britain’s favourite dish. If it is yours, then you may be disappointed: this dish is not it.
(Page 270) And now I want both a British chicken tikka masala and the Dishoom chicken tikka, served hot, now, please.
Archival photgraphs interspersed with contemporary images.
Like many, I have read Shantaram, and was engrossed and charmed by it. It still sits on my shelf (my dad never wanted it back, he’s not a rereader), but I doubt I will ever reread it, as I doubt I’d be able to suspend disbelief sufficiently to be enchanted and engrossed again. Anyway, it’s probably not possible to write about the Iranian cafés of Bombay without mentioning Shantaram, and so Shantaram is mentioned, and summed up in such a perfect way, putting into words exactly the way I suspect I would feel if I did try to reread it:
Walk down the busy (and actually quite pleasant) Colaba Causeway towards Leopold’s, an Irani café of sorts, owned by the entrepreneurs Fahrang and Farzadh Jehani. This is the Colaba of the backpacker, the hippie, the Arab and African tourists, and they say, of the drug dealers and smugglers. It is all cheerfully fictionalised in the Bombay backpackers’ favourite novel, Shantaram, a yarn of the author’s own amazing derring-do in the city. Apparently a heroin addict convicted of armed robbery back in Australia, he escaped prison, came to India and then sat (a lot) in a glamorously seedy Leopold Café with other attractive ne’er-do-wells amongst the slowly-spinning ceiling fans, bentwood chairs and old portraits. He also worked in Bollywood, started a medical centre for slum-dwellers, was imprisioned again in a notorious local jail, and escaped to become a player in the Bombay mafia. All part of a decent mid-life gap year experience, apparently.
(Page 252) «Derring-do» is spot on, there is no better word for the main gist of the novel.
Gorgeous photography
To bring focus back to the book I’m supposed to be reviewing: The photos throughout, by Haarala Hamilton (except archive photos, helpfully listed), of both places, people and food, are wonderfully evocative and support the text beautifully. My mouth waters at the food and my inner ears are assailed by the noises of a city full of cars, bicycles, people and animals. In addition, the illustrations (by Ivana Zorn) and the graphic design of the book itself are just gorgeous, and I could happily purchase this books for looks alone. The use of old newspaper advertisements are just one of the many delights.
An old advertisement on the inside of the back cover, as a last, delightful surprise for the reader.
I have yet to test any of the actual recipes, though I have bookmarked many. I did use the techniques described for «making sauces and curries» in the helpful section at the back when making a basic curry the other day, and it really did deepen the flavours of the sauce (though I think some practice is needed to avoid burning the ingredients). The instructions thoughout are clearly written, though, and amply illustrated when necessary, so once I have a free weekend I’m going to try my hand at samosas.
However, even if I never make any of the recipes in the book, it would still be something I am quite happy to have on my shelf, and if I feel the need for armchair travel to Bombay, I’ll know where to look.
Det er ikke så ofte jeg leser kokebøker fra perm til perm, og enda sjeldnere at jeg kommer så langt som til å skrive om dem. Faktisk har det bare skjedd en gang før, så vidt jeg kan se, med Dishoom: From Bombay with Love. «Mykenboka» ble bestilt så snart de åpnet for bestilling, og ankom her en liten stund før jul. Det tok en stund før jeg åpnet pakken, men når jeg først hadde gjort det var det umulig å la være å begynne å bla i boka, og like umulig å la være å begynne å lese.
